1. Shriji Mandira This magnificent temple perched high on the hilltop is one of the most famous sites in the whole of Vraja. One has to climb almost two hundred steps to reach the main gateway of the temple. It appears like a medieval palace with high walls and elaborately designed ‘chatris’ and arches. The temple of Shriji is dedicated to Shrimati Radharani, who is known locally by the pet name ‘Shri’. This famous temple is also known as the Larilylal Mandira, because it contains the deities of Larily and Lala, who are the childhood forms of Radha and Krishna. The word ‘larily’ means “dearly beloved daughter’ and ‘lala’ means ‘dearly beloved son’, which is an affectionate way of addressing young boysand girls in Vraja.
The deities were discovered at Varsana by Shrila Narayana Bhatta, who also built the original temple with the help of Raja Todarmal. Raja Todarmal was a dedicated follower and an important minister in the government of Emperor Akbar.
The temple is actually built on the site of Maharaja Vrishabhanu’s palace where Radharani used to live. In previous times, this temple was also known as the Radha-Ramana mandira. According to historical records, the temple that is seen today was built by the king of Orchha, Raja Bir Singh in 1675.
According to the shastras, the hill on which the temple stands is considered to be a manifestation of Lord Brahma, who after pleasing Lord Krishna, was given the boon to appear at this place in the form of a hill, so that he could witness the transcendental pastimes that would take place here.
Lord Brahma desired to perform some menial service for Radha and Krishna and therefore appeared as a hill on which the ‘divine couple’ could enact their transcendental pastimes and he could also obtain the dust of Their lotus feet upon his head. It is mentioned in the Puranas that Lord Brahma performed penance for sixty thousand years in order to achieve the divine darshana of Radha and Krishna. This hill is known as Brahmagiri or Brahmachala Parvata. The hill has four different peaks representing the four heads of Lord Brahma. There is a second hill situated right next to Brahmagiri known as Vilasgad or Vilasa Parvata, or sometimes known as Vishnu Parvata, and is considered to be a manifestation of Lord Vishnu.
How To Get There: This hilltop temple can be reached by climbing over two hundred steps from the village of Varsana to the main entrance of the temple. (see map no. 20)
2. Vrishabhanu-kunda
This is the celebrated kunda where Radha’s father Vrishabhanu Maharaja used to bathe in the morning. Vrishabhanu-kunda is also known as Bhanukhora.
In Bhaktiratnakara it is said, “Look at this Bhanukhora named after Vrishabhanu Maharaja and well known everywhere. This whole village is beautified by the beautiful presence of this kunda, which is also known as Shrimati Radharani’s playground. This kunda is surrounded by many temples and bestows ‘Krishna-bhakti’ on all those who simply have its darshana.”
In his previous life, Vrishabhanu had been born as a particle of Shri Hari named Suchandra. He along with his wife Kalavati had engaged in severe penance on the banks of the river Gomati. Being pleased with their devotion, Lord Brahma appeared there and awarded them with a long life in the heavenly planets and also liberation. Lord Brahma also awarded them a special boon that at the end of Dwarapa-yuga, they would be born as the mother and father of Shrimati Radharani named Vrishabhanu and Kirtida.
How To Get There: This kunda lies east of the Varsana village opposite the main bus stand. (see map no. 20)
3. Kirtida-kunda This kunda is the place where Radha’s dear mother Kirtida used to bathe. It is situated near to Bhanukora. It is said that whoever takes a bath in this kunda will be freed from all sins and go directly to Goloka after leaving the body.
How To Get There: This kunda is next to Vrishabhanu-kunda. (see map no. 20)
4. Vrajeshwara Mahadeva Mandira It is believed by locals that this deity of Lord Shiva was installed by Radha’s father Vrishabhanu Maharaja. In the recent past, some local people decided to move this deity of Shiva from the vicinity of Vrishabhanu-kunda to another location, but the deity was not willing to go. When they tried to move the deity, they found that it was too heavy to pick up. Despite the attempt by many strong men, the deity couldn’t be lifted. After becoming frustrated and bewildered in their attempt to move the deity and realizing their mistake they left the task. In repentence, they prayed to Lord Mahadeva to forgive their offence in attempting to move him to another location.
How To Get There: This temple is near Vrishabhanu-kunda. (see map no. 20)
5. Sankari Khora Sankari Khora is a very narrow valley between the two hills, Brahmagiri Parvata and Vilasa Parvata, where Shri Krishna would regularly stop the gopis and demand tax on the milk products that they were carrying to the market. This pastime is known as ‘dana-keli’, which means the game (keli) of tax collection (dana). The word ‘sankari’ means ‘narrow’ and ‘khora’ means ‘sacred place’, and it was the ideal spot to stop the gopis and demand tax before letting them through the narrow pass. Whenever the gopis refused to pay any tax, Krishna and His friends would forcibly break the gopis’ pots and distribute all the milk, yoghurt, and other dairy products between themselves. On some occasions, as a reprisal, the gopis would gang up on the cowherd boys and sometimes tie them up to trees and give them a good slapping. Once the gopis caught Krishna and forcibly dressed Him up as a gopi with a ‘gagra and choli’ (a girl’s skirt and blouse), along with bangles and a nice veil. After balancing a large yogurt pot on His head, the gopis broke it by throwing stones, causing Krishna to get drenched from head to foot in yogurt.
How To Get There: This place is 1km south of Shriji Mandira. (see map no. 20)
6. Vilasa Garh Vilasa Garh is situated on top of the hill known as Vishnu Parvata which is considered to be a manifestation of Lord Vishnu. The word ‘vilasa’ means ‘absorbed in pastimes’, and ‘garh’ means a ‘secluded place’, or in some cases a ‘private room’. Vilasa-bihari mandira is located here and also a rasa-mandala commemorating the rasa-lila pastimes that took place on this sacred hill. In one of the first transcendental pastimes that took place here, Radharani and her girlfriends were playing in a grove on the hill when Krishna arrived on the spot and became absorbed in looking at the beauty of Radharani. This was the period when Krishna was just entering youth-hood and began noticing Radharani’s exquisite features. Seeing Krishna standing there looking at Her, Radharani forbade Him to come any nearer and insisted He should instead go away and play with His friends. Nevertheless, He refused to leave and very gradually inched closer. Suddenly a terrible dust storm started to blow and thick dust clouds swirled everywhere, forcing the gopis to close their eyes. Taking advantage of the situation, Krishna sneaked up to Radharani and kissed Her on Her lotus face and then ran away.
How To Get There: This place is next to Sankari Khora on top of the hill to the east. (see map no. 20)
7. Chitrashali (Ciksauli) This is the village where the gopi named Chitra was born and grew up. Previously there was a kunja of tamala trees here where the gopis would arrange secret meetings between Radha and Krishna. Chitra Devi is one of Radharani’s most intimate companions, ‘ashta-sakhis’, or Her eight confidential girlfriends. The Bhakti-ratnakara says, “What can be said about this ‘tamala-kunja’. The sakhis arranged a meeting between Radha and Krishna here. Previously this village was known as Chitrashali-grama, but is now known as Cikasauli. Shrimati Radharani expertly dressed Herself at this place.”
Chitra-sakhi was expert in dressing and decorating Radharani with various cosmetics and ornaments, and therefore Radha would regularly come to this place from Her home, so that Chitra could help Her with Her makeup and jewelry before She went to meet Krishna. It is said that Chitra was also expert in many arts like painting and she could also understand the languages of animals and birds.
How To Get There: This village is 1.5km south of Varsana. (see map no. 20)
8. Dohani-kunda This kunda is on the outskirts of Ciksauli. It was the place where Vrishabhanu Maharaja kept his gosala and milking of the cows took place. The name of the kunda is derived from the word ‘dohani’ which means ‘milk pale’ used for milking or the process of ‘milking’. Radha and Krishna also enjoyed many wonderful pastimes here on the banks of this kunda. It is said that Krishna was teaching Radharani how to milk a cow but jokingly Krishna squirted milk from the cow’s teat directly into Radha’s face.
How To Get There: This kunda is to the west of Ciksauli village. (see map no. 20)
9. Krishna-kunda/ Gahvaravana There is a famous kunda in the Gahvaravana forest near the base of the hill. Krishna-kunda is just below Mayura Kutira. It is also sometimes known as Radharani-sarovara. Local Vrajavasis also call it by the name Gahvaravana-kunda. In the Bhakti-ratnakara it says “See the dense forest on the side of the mountain; it is justly called as Gahvaravana.” The word ‘gahvaravana’ means an ‘impenetrable forest’ with thick foliage and considered to be a very secretive place. This small forest is situated around the base of Brahmagiri Parvata in between Sankari Khora and Ciksauli Village. This small forest formerly covered the southern portion of Brahmagiri Parvata around Mana Garh and Mayura Kutira.
How To Get There: This place is 300mt after Sankari Khora near Ciksauli village. (see map no. 20)
10. Mayura Kutira (Mor Kuti) The word ‘mayura’ as well as ‘mora’ are both names for a peacock and ‘kutira’ or ‘Kuti’ means a ‘small cottage’. This place has become famous as Shri Krishna danced just like a peacock. Once when Radharani was experiencing Her ‘mana’ or lover’s pique, She came here and sat in solitude while sulking. In order to break Her ‘mana’ Shri Krishna came to this spot and began expertly dancing just like a peacock. Radharani became so enthralled by Krishna’s ecstatic peacock dance; She completely forgot Her mana and Krishna again was able to associate with Her.
On another occasion, it is said that Radha and Krishna were sitting at this spot when They were suddenly surrounded by hundreds of peacocks. The peacocks with their exotic plumage in full array, started dancing in an ecstatic mood, due to seeing the combined beauty of the ‘divine lovers’ sitting together. Seeing this, Radha and Krishna got up and began to dance imitating the wonderful dancing movements of the peacocks.
It is situated within the celebrated forest of Gahvaravana that used to surround the south-eastern side of Brahmagiri Parvata. There is also a rasa-mandala here and a small shrine commemorating the peacock dancing pastimes.
There is also a grove known as Chitra-kunja that belongs to the gopi Chitra-sakhi, who lived in the nearby village of Ciksauli. Within the shrine at Mor Kuti is a famous painting of Krishna dancing as a peacock, which is believed to have been painted by a blind Vaishnava saint. While he was performing bhajana at this spot, it is said that he received a special ‘darshana’ of the pastime. Chitra-sakhi herself was an expert artist and it is thought that she directly inspired the blind saint to paint this wonderful picture.
While Krishna was playing with his boyfriends who complained that they were feeling hungry and wanted to eat some sweets. Krishna began playing His flute and within a short time many large baskets full of laddus could be seen lying here and there within the forest. The boys started eating all the laddus and as there were many laddus lying around, the cowherd boys, while shouting “eat more laddus”, “eat more laddus”, began throwing the laddus at each other in great fun. To celebrate this famous pastime, a festival is held here in the month of August where the large crowds of revelers throw thousands of laddus at each other while celebrating this pastime of the cowherd boys.
How To Get There: This place is on top of the hill (see map no. 20)
11. Mana Garh The word ‘mana’ means a kind of ‘anger’ or ‘jealous pique’ experienced by a female lover towards her beloved, and ‘garh’ means a secluded room or a private place where one can sit in solitude. Mana garh is situated on top of the Brahmagiri Parvata and is the place where Shri Krishna, with great difficulty, was able to passify the ‘mana’ or jealous anger that was consuming Radharani.
One day Radha had arranged to meet Krishna and was waiting for Him to arrive, but due to some reason or other He was very late. While waiting there, Radha’s pet parrot suddenly arrived and conveyed the news that Krishna was sitting in a distant grove and was talking with a beautiful gopi named Chandravali.
Understanding that Chandravali had managed to steal Krishna away from Her, and was now loitering with Him in a secluded grove, Radharani became filled with indignation and in a jealous fit, ran away and hid herself at this spot.
After some time, Krishna arrived and was extremely sorry to see Radha in such a distressed condition. He tried everything to convince Her that He met Chandravali only by chance, and remained with her for sometime because she was feeling distraught, due to not having seen Him for such a long time. Regardless of Krishna’s various attempts to pacify Radha. She remained unmoved and hid Her face. She refused to even talk. Leaving that place in defeat, Krishna met with Vishakha who suggested a better way of pacifying Radharani. Vishakha then dressed Krishna in the garb of a gopi and gave Him the name Shyama sakhi.
Beautifully disguised as a young gopi and holding a vina. Shyama sakhi was then introduced to Radharani by Vishakha as one of their new friends who was able to sing very sweetly. Radharani was very happy to meet the new gopi and invited her to sing and play the vina. As she sang a number of enchanting songs of love, the sound of Shyama-sakhi’s voice enthralled Radha to a great degree that She couldn’t resist Herself to hold the new gopi in Her arms and embrace her. As Radharani kept Her arms around Shyama-sakhi and felt the touch of her body, She immediately realized that it was none other than Her beloved Krishna, and became so ecstatic that Her mana completely disappeared. Radharani then remained there with Her beloved Krishna while enjoying transcendental loving exchanges. There is a shrine here called Mana Kutira which is dedicated to the ‘mana-lila’ pastime that took place at this spot. There is also a ‘hindola’ or ‘jhula’ which is a large swing where the ‘divine couple’ enjoyed ‘jhulana-lila’ or swing pastimes with the gopis. At Managada peak, there is also a rasa-mandala that commemorates the rasa-dance. This spot is also situated within the Gahvaravana forest where it is said there was once a lake called Ratnakara-sarovara.
How To Get There: This place is on top of the hill. (see map no. 20)
12. Dana Garh (Dan Mal) Here on the top of Brahmagiri Parvata, Krishna and His friends would try to extract taxes from the gopis. There is a temple dedicated to this pastime of tax collection known as the Dana-bihari Mandira. This spot is also known as the Danagad peak.
How To Get There: This place is on top of the hill to the west of Sankari Khora. (see map no. 20)
13. Kushala Bihari Mandira (Jaipura Temple) This beautiful temple was built by the Maharaja of Jaipura for the pleasure of Shrimati Radharani at a great expense to the king. The installed deities of Radha and Krishna are known as Shri Shri Kushala Bihari. They are presided along with deities of Gopalaji and Hamsa-Gopala.
How To Get There: This temple is on top of the hill (see map no. 20)
14. Piyala-sarovara (Pili Pokhara) There is a famous pastime related to this sacred lake. One day Radharani, accompanied by Her friends, went to Nandagrama where She met Krishna’s mother Yashoda Mayi. Upon seeing the exquisite beauty and cultured behavior of Radharani, Yashoda Mayi yearned within her heart that Radha should become her daughter-in-law, by getting Her married to her darling son Krishna. Yashoda Mayi was so carried away with the idea that she mixed some yellow turmeric paste and began applying it to Radharani’s hands, as is the custom when the would-be-bride visits the house of her future mother-in-law. After feeling greatly honored by the affection shown by mother Yashoda, Radha left with Her friends for Varsana.
Observing the bright yellow color of Her hands, Radharani began to feel rather embarrassed and began to ponder what the people of Varsana, and especially Her family members might think if She arrived home with the yellow-colored hands of a would-bebride. Therefore, Radharani rushed to the nearby lake known as Piyala-sarovara and diligently began washing off all the yellow or pili colored tumeric from Her hands.
Immediately after Radha had washed Her hands, the water in the lake turned a very bright yellow. Due to this, the lake became celebrated as Pili Pokhara, meaning the ‘yellow colored lake’. The area around this lake is also known as Pilu Khora because Radha and Krishna used to pick pilu fruits from the sacred pilu trees at this place. In the Bhakti-ratnakara it says “On the northern side of Banukhora is Piyala-sarovara where Radha and Krishna performed various sports. At this place the ‘Divine Couple’ along with their associates became happy to see the beauty of the great jiyala trees. It was here on the pretext of picking pilu fruits that Radha and Krishna enjoyed each other’s company, hence it became known to everyone as Pilu Khora.”
How To Get There: This lake is (500mt) north of Shriji Mandira. (see map no. 20) 
